Lumphini Park สวนลุมพินี

Wildlife

For a park surrounded by skyscrapers, Lumphini is remarkably wild. Its lake and old trees are home to large reptiles, storks, herons and more than thirty species of birds.

Water monitors

The park's most famous residents are the Asian water monitors (Varanus salvator), large lizards that can grow to two metres or more. They swim slowly across the lake with only their heads above water, haul themselves out to bask on the banks, and sometimes climb the trees along the shore.

An Asian water monitor at the water's edge
An Asian water monitor at the water's edge Photo: Kriti Sachdeva, CC BY-SA 4.0

Monitors are scavengers and hunters: they eat fish, birds, eggs and carrion, and help keep the lake clean. They are wild animals but not aggressive towards people, and they will move away if given room. In 2016 their number was estimated at around 400, and the city relocated a number of the larger animals to a wildlife breeding centre in Ratchaburi province. Plenty remain, and you are almost certain to see them.

A monitor swimming close to the shore
A monitor swimming close to the shore Photo: MikSed, CC BY-SA 4.0
Basking on the lawn
Basking on the lawn Photo: Welcome to Thailand, CC0
Monitors are good climbers too
Monitors are good climbers too Photo: Alexey Komarov, CC BY-SA 4.0

A word about the name

The common Thai word for the monitor, เหี้ย (hia), is also one of the strongest insults in the Thai language. Many people prefer a polite euphemism, ตัวเงินตัวทอง (tua ngoen tua thong), "the silver and gold creature". It is good manners to use it, or simply to say "monitor lizard".

A sculpture of a water monitor, the park's unofficial mascot
A sculpture of a water monitor, the park's unofficial mascot Photo: Tree Lightbulb, CC BY 4.0

Birds

More than thirty bird species have been recorded in the park. Along the lake you can watch wading birds fishing at the water's edge, while the canopy is full of song.

Asian openbill

The Asian openbill (Anastomus oscitans) is a stork with a curious gap between its mandibles, an adaptation for prising apple snails from their shells. It is often seen along the lake shore.

An Asian openbill at the edge of the lake
An Asian openbill at the edge of the lake Photo: กสิณธร ราชโอรส, CC BY-SA 4.0

Asian koel

Heard more often than seen: the rising ko-el, ko-el call of the male Asian koel (Eudynamys scolopaceus) is one of the sounds of a Bangkok morning. The male is glossy black with a red eye.

A male Asian koel in the canopy
A male Asian koel in the canopy Photo: กสิณธร ราชโอรส, CC BY-SA 4.0

Striated heron

The striated heron (Butorides striata) stands motionless on the banks, waiting for a fish to come within reach of its sharp bill.

A striated heron hunting from the bank
A striated heron hunting from the bank Photo: กสิณธร ราชโอรส, CC BY-SA 4.0

Turtles, fish and others

Turtles live in the lake and are often seen surfacing to breathe or resting on the banks. The water also holds plenty of fish, which feed the monitors and the herons. Cats also live freely in the park.

A turtle in the lake
A turtle in the lake Photo: MikSed, CC BY-SA 4.0
One of the park's cats resting in the grass
One of the park's cats resting in the grass Photo: Welcome to Thailand, CC0

Watching wildlife with respect

  • Keep a few metres' distance from monitors, and never corner, chase or touch them.
  • Do not feed the animals. Food from people makes them unhealthy and unafraid.
  • Stay on the paths near the water's edge, where nests and basking spots are.
  • Early morning and late afternoon are the best times to see birds and monitors.